This month, we unveil the first instalment of our new regular series, Daycation. South London girls, interiors editor Lizzie Hayman and food writer Paloma Lacy, returned to Dulwich to celebrate the timeless appeal of this quintessential picture-perfect village in leafy South London.
“Acacia Grove, SE21, is where it all began for me. I spent 24 happy years in the family home that shaped so much of who I am today.
Over the years, life took me further afield, eventually to Sussex, but West Dulwich never stopped feeling like home. So when we chose Dulwich to launch this new series, I felt equal parts excitement and apprehension. It had been years since I’d last wandered its leafy streets, passed its familiar shopfronts, or paused to enjoy the village-like atmosphere that makes this corner of South London so special.
I needn’t have worried. The moment I stepped off the train and onto the platform, I felt it instantly. Home at last.”
Lizzie Hayman
Getting there..
Just a short nine-minute train journey from London Victoria, and I’m at West Dulwich train station. There are many bus routes that connect with Central London.
Village Life
We began our day in Dulwich Village, a postcard-pretty pocket of South London defined by elegant multi-million-pound homes, charming boutiques and a carefully curated mix of cafés and restaurants. At its centre sits the local pub, the Crown & Greyhound – a much-loved landmark that continues to serve as the beating heart of the community.
Village Gate, Image by Katy Savage
After a leisurely mooch around the village, browsing the treasures at Tomlinson’s for beautiful gifts and homeware and popping into Gail’s for cake (naturally), we decided a well-earned pit stop was in order: a glass of fizz at the Crown & Greyhound or The Dog, as it’s known locally.
Back in my day, the Dog was the unofficial headquarters of Dulwich College’s sixth-form crowd, packed most weekends with public school boys and girls making the most of their newfound freedom. Suffice to say, it was an era when fake IDs were not uncommon.
Today, the atmosphere feels rather different. The clientele is older, effortlessly stylish and decidedly sophisticated, yet the pub has retained the warm, welcoming character that has made it such a local institution for generations.
Parks and recreation
Nestled in the heart of the village is Dulwich Park. It’s hand down one of the capital’s most charming green spaces. Opened in 1890, it has wide, tree-lined avenues, an ornamental lake, colourful flower beds, and an elegant café, making it a favourite with locals year-round. Whether you’re strolling beneath the mature trees, enjoying a coffee by the water or watching families make use of the boating lake and playground, the park offers a welcome escape from city life.
Just a stone’s throw away from Dulwich Park is Belair Park, where you’ll find a picturesque lake which is fed by a branch of the ancient River Effra, one of London’s hidden waterways. While much of the river now flows underground, Belair offers a rare glimpse of this fascinating piece of the capital’s natural history.
The park is set within the grounds of a former country estate and is known for its sweeping lawns, mature woodland and impressive Georgian mansion. Less manicured than its neighbour DP, Belair has a wonderfully peaceful feel, making it the perfect spot for a quiet walk, a picnic or simply soaking up the natural beauty that makes Dulwich one of London’s leafiest spots.
London’s Best-Kept Art Secret: Dulwich Picture Gallery
For culture vulture travellers looking to escape London’s crowded landmarks, Dulwich Picture Gallery offers a rewarding alternative.
Housed in Sir John Soane’s pioneering architectural design, it’s home to an exceptional collection of Old Master paintings, including works by Rembrandt and Van Dyck. The gallery has a calm, contemplative atmosphere that makes it easy to linger over the art without the usual city centre crowds.
Steeped in history and quiet elegance, it also features a welcoming café perfect for a pause between galleries and a chance to reflect on the collection.
Image: Girl at a Window, Rembrandt
Beyond the village
A ten-minute walk from the village, the neighbourhood fans out along three main arteries, Rosendale Road, Park Hall Road and Croxted Road. Each is lined with excellent independents, from neighbourhood delis and bakeries to much-loved local shops, alongside a pair of standout pubs that anchor the community.
Property prices remain firmly in the premium bracket here but tend to be a little less eye-watering than those found in the heart of the village.
After being caught in a biblical downpour and with soggy feet, we sought refuge at the Alleyn’s Head, a locals’ local and coincidentally my late father’s favourite spot. A fitting place from which to explore this quieter, less celebrated side of West Dulwich, and once again filled with a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
Family friendly
For many families, West Dulwich’s greatest luxury isn’t its handsome Victorian houses or leafy streets, but the quality of its schools. The neighbourhood is exceptionally well served, with a mix of highly regarded state and independent options that draw buyers from across south London.
Among the standouts are Rosendale Primary and Dulwich Wood Primary, both popular local choices, while Alleyn’s Oakfield and Dulwich Prep offer respected independent alternatives for younger pupils. As children move on, families benefit from proximity to some of the capital’s most sought-after secondary schools, including The Charter School North Dulwich, Kingsdale Foundation School, Alleyn’s, Dulwich College, and James Allen’s Girls’ School.
It’s little surprise that school catchments feature prominently in conversations with local estate agents. In Dulwich, education is as much a part of the neighbourhood’s appeal as its parks, cafés and village atmosphere.
Famous faces
West Dulwich and the wider Dulwich area have long attracted notable residents. Antarctic explorer Ernest Shackleton and actor Peter Cushing both lived locally, while the broader Dulwich neighbourhood has been home to figures including comedian Micky Flanagan and broadcaster Kate Thornton. The area is also often associated with former Hollywood power couple Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman during their years in London.
My own claim to fame is that my mum used to babysit a young Tim Roth, who lived just around the corner. While the rest of the world knows him as an acclaimed actor, my sister still knows him as the boy who ruined her brand-new pink carpet.
Elysium recommends…
Drinks
Family-friendly and reasonable prices make the Alleyn’s Head a great all-rounder.
The Alleyn’s Head. Park Hall Rd, Greater London SE21 8BW.
For a buzzy vibe and fab cocktails
The Jamm Hub – Restaurant & Cocktail Bar in West Dulwich | Jamm Trade.
84 Park Hall Rd, London SE21 8BW.
Eats
For high-end pub fayre – head to The Crown & Greyhound. I have reliable information that Pollo Milanese is a solid choice for lunch or dinner.
Traditional Italian fare that will fill tummies and won’t break the bank.
Rocca di Papa. 75-79 Dulwich Village, London SE21 7BJ.
Grown up Gastro dining vibes in a traditional pub setting
The Rosendale: pub dining in Dulwich.
All the classics, plus a few surprises. Rosendale Meze makes for a great sharer.
65 Rosendale Rd, London, SE21 8EZ.
Shopping
An Aladdin’s cave of gorgeous bits and bobs.
Dulwich Trader Rigby and Mac, 11 Croxted Rd, Norwood, London SE21 8SZ.
A must-visit for all your Italian goodies
La Gastronomia, 86 Park Hall Rd, London SE21 8BW.
Locals say this is the best spot for a hot chocolate
Il Sovrano, 12 Croxted Rd, London SE21 8SW.
Sleepover
You’re not exactly spoilt for choice when it comes to places to stay in and around Dulwich, but rooms at The Crown & Greyhound start from around £125 a night, and you’d be hard-pressed to find a better base and location for exploring the neighbourhood
Crown & Greyhound Pub & Restaurant, 73 Dulwich Village, Greater London SE21 7BJ.
