Tbilisi: Where Ancient Streets Meet a New Creative Energy
Sulphur baths, spectacular views, irresistible food and a wonderfully eccentric Old Town make Georgia’s capital a fabulous destination to discover.
There are cities you visit for their monuments, and cities you remember for their atmosphere. Tbilisi has both.
Georgia’s captivating capital tumbles across the banks of the Mtkvari River, its colourful old houses and carved wooden balconies climbing towards ancient fortresses and green hills. Look in another direction and the city suddenly becomes strikingly contemporary, with dramatic architecture, buzzing cafés and a new generation bringing fresh energy to Georgian culture.
Add fabulous food, Georgian wine and warm hospitality, and Tbilisi makes a wonderfully different destination for a long weekend or a more leisurely escape.
THE BRIDGE OF PEACE
One of modern Tbilisi’s most recognisable landmarks is the Bridge of Peace, an elegant glass-and-steel pedestrian bridge stretching across the Mtkvari River.
Designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi and opened in 2010, its sweeping glass canopy is impressive during the day, but come back after dark when the bridge is illuminated and the riverside takes on an entirely different atmosphere.
The bridge leads directly into Rike Park, making this an excellent place to begin exploring the city.
For a rather more adventurous view, look out for the Tbilisi Air Balloon in Rike Park. The tethered observation balloon rises high above the city, offering panoramic views across the rooftops, river and surrounding hills.
From Rike Park you can also take the cable car towards Narikala Fortress, gliding above the Old Town as the city unfolds beneath you.
LOSE YOURSELF IN OLD TBILISI
The real pleasure of Tbilisi is often found simply by wandering.
Head into the historic neighbourhoods around Abanotubani, Betlemi and Sololaki, where narrow lanes twist between pastel-coloured houses, old churches and traditional homes with beautifully carved wooden balconies.
Above the Old Town stands Narikala Fortress, a landmark that has watched over Tbilisi for centuries. The climb – or cable-car journey – is rewarded with wonderful views over the city.
Below it lies one of Tbilisi’s most atmospheric areas: Abanotubani, famous for its distinctive domed sulphur bathhouses. Tbilisi’s natural hot springs have played an important part in the city’s story for generations, and booking a private bath and traditional scrub is an experience worth adding to the itinerary.
Nearby, follow the walkway into Leghvtakhevi Gorge, an unexpected pocket of nature hidden in the centre of the city. A stream runs between steep rock walls beneath houses and balconies seemingly perched above the gorge, eventually leading towards a small waterfall.
It feels a world away from a busy capital city.
A CLOCK TOWER WITH A DIFFERENCE
Tbilisi does quirky extremely well.
Hidden among the streets of the Old Town is the extraordinary Leaning Clock Tower, part of the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theatre.
Created by celebrated Georgian artist and theatre director Rezo Gabriadze, the crooked, fairytale-like tower looks as though it has escaped from the pages of an illustrated storybook. Its mismatched tiles, tiny windows and deliberately leaning structure have made it one of the city’s most photographed sights.
Watch for the little angel that emerges to ring the bell on the hour, with miniature performances taking place at selected times.
COFFEE, COLOUR & CAFÉ LEILA
Just a few steps from the clock tower is Café Leila, a wonderfully eccentric café that feels almost like stepping inside an artwork.
Its intricate decorative ceiling, colourful folk-inspired interiors and intimate atmosphere make it as memorable for its surroundings as for the food. With vegetarian and plant-based choices, it is a lovely place to stop for lunch or take a break from sightseeing over tea or coffee.
Tbilisi has a thriving restaurant and café scene, so it is worth venturing beyond the traditional tourist spots too. Georgian cuisine is made for sharing: order several dishes for the table and settle in for a long, leisurely meal.
WHAT TO EAT
You cannot visit Georgia without trying khachapuri.
There are several regional varieties of this famous Georgian cheese-filled bread, but perhaps the most dramatic is Adjarian khachapuri, originating in the western region of Adjara.
Shaped like a little boat, freshly baked bread arrives filled with molten cheese and topped with an egg and butter. Stir the centre together while it is piping hot, tear pieces from the crust and dip them into the rich cheese mixture.
It is indulgent, comforting and completely delicious.
Also look out for khinkali, Georgia’s famous soup-filled dumplings; grilled meats and vegetables; walnut-rich dishes such as aubergine with walnut; and, of course, Georgian wine.
Georgia has one of the world’s oldest winemaking traditions, and discovering its amber wines and traditional qvevri winemaking – where wine is fermented in large clay vessels – is an experience in itself.
A CITY OF CONTRASTS
Part of Tbilisi’s charm is the way its history sits alongside the modern city.
Grand avenues and university buildings give way to cobbled Old Town streets; ancient churches look across towards contemporary architecture; and a morning spent exploring historic bathhouses can end with cocktails in a stylish bar or dinner in a fashionable neighbourhood restaurant.
Tbilisi State University, founded in 1918, is an important part of Georgia’s cultural and academic history and another reminder that this is much more than a tourist city – Tbilisi is a living, evolving capital.
For another perspective, look towards Mount Mtatsminda, crowned by Tbilisi’s distinctive television tower. The hillside is one of the city’s defining landmarks and offers superb views, particularly towards sunset when the city begins to light up below.
WHERE TO STAY
For a comfortable base in the capital, Highgarden Hotel is one accommodation option to consider.
Tbilisi also has everything from elegant international hotels to stylish Georgian boutique properties tucked inside historic neighbourhoods. For a first visit, staying within easy reach of the Old Town, Freedom Square, Rustaveli Avenue or Avlabari makes exploring many of the major sights straightforward.
Those looking for atmosphere may prefer a restored traditional property with balconies and courtyards, while a contemporary hotel around the city centre can offer modern facilities and easy transport connections.
MAKE TIME FOR GEORGIAN HOSPITALITY
Tbilisi’s famous sights are certainly worth seeing, but Georgia is a destination where food, wine and hospitality can become some of the strongest memories of the trip.
A traditional Georgian feast, or supra, is a celebration in itself, with dishes filling the table, glasses raised for toasts and food designed to be shared.
Leave room in the itinerary for discoveries: a tiny wine bar down a side street, a bakery selling warm bread, an unexpected courtyard or a restaurant recommended by someone you meet along the way.
That spontaneity suits Tbilisi perfectly.
BEYOND TBILISI
Have more than a few days? Use the capital as the beginning rather than the end of the Georgian adventure.
The country packs extraordinary variety into a relatively small area: vineyards and wineries in Kakheti, mountain scenery in the Caucasus, ancient monasteries, historic towns and the Black Sea coast around Batumi.
Even a day trip beyond Tbilisi reveals just how dramatically the landscape changes once you leave the capital behind.
TRAVEL NOTES
Flights between London Luton and Tbilisi can make Georgia an appealing alternative for travellers looking beyond the usual European city break. Flight schedules vary, so check current days and frequencies when booking.
Tbilisi itself rewards comfortable shoes. Many of its most interesting streets are steep, cobbled or best explored on foot, although taxis, the Metro and cable car make travelling around the city relatively easy.
Spring and autumn are particularly attractive times to visit, when the weather is comfortable for exploring and long lunches can spill out onto terraces.
WHY GO?
Go for the dramatic Old Town and sulphur baths. Go for the Bridge of Peace illuminated after dark, the cable-car views and that wonderfully wonky clock tower.
Go hungry for khachapuri, khinkali and Georgian wine.
But most of all, go because Tbilisi still feels like a city waiting to be discovered – historic without feeling frozen in time, creative without trying too hard and different enough to turn a simple city break into a real adventure.
Georgia might just be the trip you weren’t expecting to fall in love with.
