Ruins of an ancient stone fort sit on a rocky hill, surrounded by green trees and vibrant purple flowers. A cityscape spreads in the background under a blue sky with scattered clouds, mountains visible in the distance.

Georgia, A Travel Guide to Tbilisi

Tbilisi: Where Ancient Streets Meet a New Creative Energy

Sulphur baths, spectacular views, irresistible food and a wonderfully eccentric Old Town make Georgia’s capital a fabulous destination to discover.

There are cities you visit for their monuments, and cities you remember for their atmosphere. Tbilisi has both.

Georgia’s captivating capital tumbles across the banks of the Mtkvari River, its colourful old houses and carved wooden balconies climbing towards ancient fortresses and green hills. Look in another direction and the city suddenly becomes strikingly contemporary, with dramatic architecture, buzzing cafés and a new generation bringing fresh energy to Georgian culture.

A large beige building sits behind a row of leafy green trees along a busy riverside road. Cars drive on the road, and calm water flows beside a stone embankment. A mountain rises in the background under a blue sky with soft sunlight.

Add fabulous food, Georgian wine and warm hospitality, and Tbilisi makes a wonderfully different destination for a long weekend or a more leisurely escape.

THE BRIDGE OF PEACE

One of modern Tbilisi’s most recognisable landmarks is the Bridge of Peace, an elegant glass-and-steel pedestrian bridge stretching across the Mtkvari River.

Modern glass-and-steel pedestrian bridge arches over a wide river, with trees and a pavement lining the riverbank. Distant city buildings and hills are visible under a partly cloudy sky. The bridge has a unique, wavy design.

Designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi and opened in 2010, its sweeping glass canopy is impressive during the day, but come back after dark when the bridge is illuminated and the riverside takes on an entirely different atmosphere.

A modern glass-and-steel pedestrian bridge with a curved roof arches over a river. The image, shot from below at an angle, shows a glass stairway leading up, with water, city buildings, and greenery visible in the background.
Glass-and-steel pedestrian bridge with a curved, lattice structure overhead, creating a tunnel-like effect; glass balustrades on both sides, blue sky above, cityscape visible at the end of the bridge, and several people in the distance.

The bridge leads directly into Rike Park, making this an excellent place to begin exploring the city.

A large white spherical balloon with an orange “m²” logo is tethered in a landscaped park at sunset. Benches, greenery, and distant city buildings are visible, with hills and a tall broadcast mast in the background under a partly cloudy sky.

For a rather more adventurous view, look out for the Tbilisi Air Balloon in Rike Park. The tethered observation balloon rises high above the city, offering panoramic views across the rooftops, river and surrounding hills.

From Rike Park you can also take the cable car towards Narikala Fortress, gliding above the Old Town as the city unfolds beneath you.

A cityscape shows a historic church with a green dome, surrounded by colourful buildings on a steep hill. Scaffolding and green netting cover parts of the hillside, and a cable car travels overhead. People walk along the street in the foreground.

LOSE YOURSELF IN OLD TBILISI

The real pleasure of Tbilisi is often found simply by wandering.

Head into the historic neighbourhoods around Abanotubani, Betlemi and Sololaki, where narrow lanes twist between pastel-coloured houses, old churches and traditional homes with beautifully carved wooden balconies.

Above the Old Town stands Narikala Fortress, a landmark that has watched over Tbilisi for centuries. The climb – or cable-car journey – is rewarded with wonderful views over the city.

Below it lies one of Tbilisi’s most atmospheric areas: Abanotubani, famous for its distinctive domed sulphur bathhouses. Tbilisi’s natural hot springs have played an important part in the city’s story for generations, and booking a private bath and traditional scrub is an experience worth adding to the itinerary.

Nearby, follow the walkway into Leghvtakhevi Gorge, an unexpected pocket of nature hidden in the centre of the city. A stream runs between steep rock walls beneath houses and balconies seemingly perched above the gorge, eventually leading towards a small waterfall.

A white metal bridge spans a steep, rocky gorge with a waterfall below. Lush greenery and flowering plants surround the scene. Several people walk across the bridge. Tall trees and a distant statue on a hill are visible in the background.

A white arched bridge spans rocky cliffs above a small waterfall, surrounded by dense green foliage and tall trees. Blue sky and a distant building are visible above the rocks. Bright sunlight highlights the natural landscape.
A waterfall cascades down rocky cliffs into a shallow pool, surrounded by green moss and trees with light green leaves. The sun shines through branches, illuminating parts of the water and cliff, creating a serene and natural atmosphere.

It feels a world away from a busy capital city.

A CLOCK TOWER WITH A DIFFERENCE

Tbilisi does quirky extremely well.

Hidden among the streets of the Old Town is the extraordinary Leaning Clock Tower, part of the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theatre.

Created by celebrated Georgian artist and theatre director Rezo Gabriadze, the crooked, fairytale-like tower looks as though it has escaped from the pages of an illustrated storybook. Its mismatched tiles, tiny windows and deliberately leaning structure have made it one of the city’s most photographed sights.

Watch for the little angel that emerges to ring the bell on the hour, with miniature performances taking place at selected times.

A whimsical, leaning stone clock tower with a large golden clock face, eclectic decorations, and mosaic tiles stands beside a tall cypress tree on a cobbled street, surrounded by colourful buildings and a few people walking nearby.

COFFEE, COLOUR & CAFÉ LEILA

Just a few steps from the clock tower is Café Leila, a wonderfully eccentric café that feels almost like stepping inside an artwork.

An ornate café with carved white ceiling, intricate wall art, round mirrors, red-upholstered benches, and mismatched chairs. Dim lighting, a vintage lamp on a wooden counter, and warm, cosy decor create an eclectic, inviting atmosphere.

Its intricate decorative ceiling, colourful folk-inspired interiors and intimate atmosphere make it as memorable for its surroundings as for the food. With vegetarian and plant-based choices, it is a lovely place to stop for lunch or take a break from sightseeing over tea or coffee.

Tbilisi has a thriving restaurant and café scene, so it is worth venturing beyond the traditional tourist spots too. Georgian cuisine is made for sharing: order several dishes for the table and settle in for a long, leisurely meal.

WHAT TO EAT

You cannot visit Georgia without trying khachapuri.

There are several regional varieties of this famous Georgian cheese-filled bread, but perhaps the most dramatic is Adjarian khachapuri, originating in the western region of Adjara.

Shaped like a little boat, freshly baked bread arrives filled with molten cheese and topped with an egg and butter. Stir the centre together while it is piping hot, tear pieces from the crust and dip them into the rich cheese mixture.

A khachapuri—oval-shaped Georgian bread with a baked egg, melted cheese, and a pat of butter—sits on a wooden serving board atop a light brown wooden table. The bread ends are twisted, giving it a boat-like appearance.

It is indulgent, comforting and completely delicious.

Also look out for khinkali, Georgia’s famous soup-filled dumplings; grilled meats and vegetables; walnut-rich dishes such as aubergine with walnut; and, of course, Georgian wine.

Georgia has one of the world’s oldest winemaking traditions, and discovering its amber wines and traditional qvevri winemaking – where wine is fermented in large clay vessels – is an experience in itself.

A CITY OF CONTRASTS

Part of Tbilisi’s charm is the way its history sits alongside the modern city.

Grand avenues and university buildings give way to cobbled Old Town streets; ancient churches look across towards contemporary architecture; and a morning spent exploring historic bathhouses can end with cocktails in a stylish bar or dinner in a fashionable neighbourhood restaurant.

An artist paints at an easel near a stone path by a stream with an old stone bridge. Traditional wooden buildings with balconies stand on a rocky hillside under a clear blue sky. A few people walk in the background.

Tbilisi State University, founded in 1918, is an important part of Georgia’s cultural and academic history and another reminder that this is much more than a tourist city – Tbilisi is a living, evolving capital.

For another perspective, look towards Mount Mtatsminda, crowned by Tbilisi’s distinctive television tower. The hillside is one of the city’s defining landmarks and offers superb views, particularly towards sunset when the city begins to light up below.

A paved path with black railings winds through tall, dense bamboo and a large, curved tree arching over the walkway. Sunlight filters through the leafy canopy, casting dappled light and shadows on the peaceful, green scene.
A white sign reads “National Botanic Garden of Georgia” in Georgian and English, with logos and text for “Plant Conservation Department,” “National Seed Bank,” and “Millennium Seed Bank Partnership.” It is outdoors, surrounded by greenery and sunlight.

WHERE TO STAY

For a comfortable base in the capital, Highgarden Hotel is one accommodation option to consider.

A hotel lobby with a white marble reception desk, brown and cream tiled floor, a gold chandelier, and a lounge area with dark chairs and tables. Large windows, potted plants, and a bar are visible. The atmosphere is modern and elegant.
Modern lounge with a bar, purple velvet chairs, gold tables, large plants, and teal-patterned wallpaper. Shelves behind the bar display bottles. A dark TV screen and gold table sit near the wall. Natural light brightens the stylish space.

Tbilisi also has everything from elegant international hotels to stylish Georgian boutique properties tucked inside historic neighbourhoods. For a first visit, staying within easy reach of the Old Town, Freedom Square, Rustaveli Avenue or Avlabari makes exploring many of the major sights straightforward.

Those looking for atmosphere may prefer a restored traditional property with balconies and courtyards, while a contemporary hotel around the city centre can offer modern facilities and easy transport connections.

MAKE TIME FOR GEORGIAN HOSPITALITY

Tbilisi’s famous sights are certainly worth seeing, but Georgia is a destination where food, wine and hospitality can become some of the strongest memories of the trip.

A traditional Georgian feast, or supra, is a celebration in itself, with dishes filling the table, glasses raised for toasts and food designed to be shared.

A cosy restaurant with brick walls, green-framed windows, wooden chairs, and tables with white tablecloths. Ornate lamps with fringe hang above, plants sit by the windows, and sunlight streams in, creating a warm, inviting atmosphere.
A menu cover with floral and leafy green designs on a tan background. “STUMARI Restaurant” is centred in green and black script, with a small blue bird above the word “STUMARI.” Two purple flowers are near the bottom.

Leave room in the itinerary for discoveries: a tiny wine bar down a side street, a bakery selling warm bread, an unexpected courtyard or a restaurant recommended by someone you meet along the way.

That spontaneity suits Tbilisi perfectly.

BEYOND TBILISI

Have more than a few days? Use the capital as the beginning rather than the end of the Georgian adventure.

The country packs extraordinary variety into a relatively small area: vineyards and wineries in Kakheti, mountain scenery in the Caucasus, ancient monasteries, historic towns and the Black Sea coast around Batumi.

Even a day trip beyond Tbilisi reveals just how dramatically the landscape changes once you leave the capital behind.

TRAVEL NOTES

Flights between London Luton and Tbilisi can make Georgia an appealing alternative for travellers looking beyond the usual European city break. Flight schedules vary, so check current days and frequencies when booking.

Tbilisi itself rewards comfortable shoes. Many of its most interesting streets are steep, cobbled or best explored on foot, although taxis, the Metro and cable car make travelling around the city relatively easy.

Spring and autumn are particularly attractive times to visit, when the weather is comfortable for exploring and long lunches can spill out onto terraces.

WHY GO?

Go for the dramatic Old Town and sulphur baths. Go for the Bridge of Peace illuminated after dark, the cable-car views and that wonderfully wonky clock tower.

Go hungry for khachapuri, khinkali and Georgian wine.

But most of all, go because Tbilisi still feels like a city waiting to be discovered – historic without feeling frozen in time, creative without trying too hard and different enough to turn a simple city break into a real adventure.

Georgia might just be the trip you weren’t expecting to fall in love with.

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James Carter

Award winning photographer James Carter has turned his lens toward healthy living. Through his beautifully crafted breakfast imagery he inspires a more balanced lifestyle. James is our Dubai correspondent sharing a dynamic wellness focused view point from the region.
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