From the crystal waters of the Mediterranean Sea, the peace of white-washed churches, the picturesque streets of mountain villages and the lush greenery of mountain walks… you can find whatever your soul seeks in Cyprus… comfort, peace, luxury, nourishment for the body, mind and soul in equal measure, for everyone.
Cyprus, for me, is home… as the daughter of Greek Cypriot parents my heritage pulls me back and I return every year at least once… it rejuvenates, connects me to my roots, and reminds me that it’s good to pause, to slow down, and to just be.
If you’re visiting Cyprus this summer, these are four of the places I can personally recommend for you. And if you visit, please let me know what you think or share your photos by tagging me @soullasays on Instagram 😊
Aphrodite’s Rock – also known locally as Petra tou Romiou
Where the Sea Whispers Ancient Love
A magical place, situated along the southwestern coast of Cyprus, approximately 25km east of Paphos, you can easily find it along the main road from Limassol to Paphos. Geologically, it is a sea stack; a steep, upright column of rock formed by continuous wave erosion over millions of years. The surrounding area features rugged cliffs, secluded pebbled beaches, and clear turquoise waters, making it a popular tourist destination.
Aphrodite’s Rock has been a key site of worship in ancient Paphos, with nearby sanctuaries attracting pilgrims far and wide in ancient times. It is still a popular tourist attraction, and in the height of summer you will find rows and rows of parked cars as tourists and locals stop to take in the view or navigate the steep, stony path down to the beach. The spot offers scenic views, walking trails, and wonderful opportunities to take great photos.
Local legend has it that swimming around the rock three times anti-clockwise can bring eternal beauty, and the area is often associated with romantic and mystical experiences. I last visited with my son and remember taking photographs on some of the larger rock formations on the beach itself. The sea was wild that day and we just paddled around for a bit, marvelling at so many other swimmers in the sea. There have been many marriage proposals on this beach and declarations of love too which is so romantic since it is celebrated as the legendary birthplace of the Greek goddess Aphrodite and she rose out of the foamy salt waters and walked onto the Cypriot shores here.
However, a note of caution… don’t climb the rock due to safety concerns, and the waters around it can be rough, so we avoid swimming too close to it.
Kato Lefkara
Following the Threads of Tradition
The beautiful village of Kato Lefkara (lower Lefkara) in the Larnaca district, is nestled in hilly terrain about 34 km southwest of Larnaca. You can get to it easily by road, making the journey faster and more enjoyable than years ago when my family and I would travel along the most treacherous mountain tracks, with no safety barriers on the outside edge, and barely room for two cars to pass one another. I remember closing my eyes whenever a car approached and my dad would have to pull over as far as he could to let them squeeze past.
Both Kato and Pano (upper) Lefkara are known for their intricate embroidery and lace-making called Lefkaritika. My maternal grandmother and mum used to sew the lace (it was their only form of income)
I am lucky to have many handmade items in my linen trunk… treasured tablecloths, napkin sets and place mats, handed down through the generations and I hope to one day, pass them to my own children and grandchildren. And for now, I have written The Summer Will Come, a story of war, courage and family set in the 1950s and in finance as a film.
It has been recorded that, in 1481, Leonardo Da Vinci visited the village (https://lefkara.travel/blog/leonardo-da-vinci-in-lefkara) and took a piece of Lefkara lace back to Italy with him, which today decorates Milan Cathedral.
And in 2009, the craft was added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. There are tiny shops scattered around the village which sell the lace and if you’re lucky you may get the chance to see a woman sitting on a Phini chair, (https://cyprus-mail.com/2023/11/28/pulling-up-a-chair-to-cyprus-craft/) bent over her embroidery in the shade of an awning in the village square or outside one of the stone houses as you wander around the tiny streets.
As you wander through the beautiful alleys you’ll see houses built with horizontal layers of limestone interspersed with pebbles which are so pretty. My grandmother’s house is still standing and there’s always a pull on my heartstrings when I stand outside it and touch the heavy wooden doors.
You can visit Panagia Eleousa Church ( https://churches.imtrimythountos.org.cy/en-us/COMMUNITIES-br-MAIN-CHURCHES/KATO-LEFKARA) and in its courtyard you’ll find the huge ancient oak tree. The view from this vantage point is stunning! We have taken many photos here and yet not one of them does the tree or striking views any justice.
There’s the old water fountain too, Havouza; two taps used to supply water to the women of the village who needed water for their daily chores, and located between Havouza and the Panagia Eleousa Church, is the old preserved olive-press which the inhabitants used to produce their olive-oil in olden times.
Omodos… Vineyards and Monastery
Omodos: A Place to Linger a Little Longer
I visited Omodos in 2019 with my parents and was so inspired by this village surrounded by vineyards that I wrote a book; The Village House, a story of home, memory and belonging.
You’ll find Omodos nestled in the gentle folds of the Troodos Mountains, 45km from Limassol and 50km from Paphos. It is surrounded by copious vineyards and boasts the Holy Cross Monastery, the joyful sound of its ringing bells across the village square. The monastery is at the heart of this community, and its breathtaking white colonnades, vaulted entrances, golden icon screen and wooden ceilings make this a place to lose yourself in serenity, beauty and calm. I could have stayed here for a few hours… it felt like a spiritual hug.
There’s also a museum dedicated to an important, yet still, lesser-known part of Cyprus’ history.
The Agonos Museum (National Struggle Museum) https://evendo.com/locations/cyprus/governor-s-beach/attraction/museum-agonos is located in the square near the Archbishopric, and houses a collection of original documents, old photographs and other personal memorabilia hailing from the 1955-1959 National Liberation Struggle against British Rule. Yes, Cyprus was once a British colony! If you want to learn more about this island’s more recent history then this is a good place to start. Take a box of tissues… this was an emotional experience.
The square is where you can mingle with the locals, buy local wine, homemade sweets and pastries, sit and have a Greek cup of coffee and a watch the world go by… Omodos is stunning!
Caledonia Falls (also known locally as Kalidonia Falls)
Secret Woodland Steps
A trail located in Pano Platres in the Troodos Mountains it is ideally reached by car, it is 105km from Larnaca and 60km from Paphos. The hike brings you to the highest falls in Cyprus ( https://www.takeyourbackpack.com/backpacking-in-cyprus/hike-caledonia-waterfalls/) and are not for those who struggle to walk… the paths are rocky, slippery and ridden with protruding tree roots (walking boots or good-grip trainers are needed!)
But with every step you take you will see more of the beauty of the forest; tall maritime pine, huge oaks reaching up into the forest canopy and acacia trees. The cascading waters and guided walkways over streams, the rock pools and the hum of nature embrace you with every step you take. The fresh pine filled our nostrils and the crunch of stones underfoot was interspaced with the softness of moss.
It can get cool in the mountains so you’ll need an extra layer of clothing, water supplies and even a snack or two. But dipping your toes in the icy water of the waterfall’s pool is reward enough after the hike whose trail is well marked and easy to follow. Get ready to take a walk into a lush green paradise.
